Alpamayo is one of the most remarkable mountains in the Cordillera Blanca. Its pyramid shaped form, the steep faces and giant white walls make it unique. The ascent is technically highly difficult and demanding. Therefore, it is only recommended for very experienced mountaineers. Requierements are good crampon and ice-climbing techniques. Furthermore, professional and proper climbing equipment is necessary. We offer the trip in our program as a 6-day tour.
The gateway to the Cordillera Blanca is Huarez. Most of the tours in that area start here, for example the expedition to Tocllarraju. To get to Alpamaya you have to go a little bit further north to Caraz. From there Mules can help you to transport your equipment and gear to the base camp. The base camp is located at a height of 5.500 m / 18.045 ft. Afterwards you have to carry your equipment on your own. The next step is to arrive at the high camp. The “french direct route” is the most common trail to limb to the summit. It is located at the south-west face of the mountain.
A lot mountaineers underestimate Alpamayo. Therefore, only half of all climbers succeed in reaching the summit. A lot of the climbers fail due to altitude sickness or physical conditions. For climbers with less experience, there are several routes around Alpamayo without actually climbing it. The tracks follow different environments, such as mountains, valleys and glaciers. Those routes are as beautiful as climbing Alpamayo itself. July is the best month to climb the mountain. The weather is stable, and the mountain has a nice snow cover.
The ascent to Alpamayo is save. Nevertheless, accidents can happen during your time in nature. In 2003 eight climbers were killed by an ice-avalanche on the mountain. Furthermore, in the past the “Ferrari route” was the common trail. Due to its dangerous passages, the park closed this trail.
In 1966, the climbing magazine „Alpinist” conducted a photo competition to find the prettiest mountain on earth. Alpamayo won the contest and was named “The World’s Most Beautiful Mountain”.